THANKSGIVING WEEKEND POST, NEW YORK
I'm a bad bad blogger, cause I didn't take a single pic of anything I ate on Thanksgiving Day. I guess it's hard when there are so many people around. I didn't event take out my camera during the actual dinner. Ah well. On Thursday morning we had dim sum at Joy Tsin Lau with my aunt and uncle. This is the same place where they'd take me during college, and despite the fact that we got a cramped table at the back of the restaurant, in a very warm spot, the food was still great and I enjoyed it a lot.
Of course, we were back on the road that afternoon, heading up to Staten Island for Thanksgiving dinner with Tom's family. It ended up taking us 3 hours to get to NY (it would normally take 1.5 hours) and when we finally arrived at his house, neither of us was very hungry. (Remember, the more time you spend in a car, the less hungry you are). There was a ton of food there, Tom's brother, Greg, had made a turkey, but there was also a lot of Korean dishes that Tom's family had prepared. It was sad that I wasn't hungrier so that I could eat more, but I was also kinda happy that I walked away from Thanksgiving without being painfully full. It made watching Grey's Anatomy that night much more enjoyable.
Our last meal in NY was at the Unicorn Diner in Staten Island for breakfast the next morning. (Did I mention that this was my first trip to Staten Island?) It was one of those quirky old places, with booths and weird decor. But the also had a huge flat screen tv. Here's a shot of the interior.I ended up ordering waffles and a side of home fries. Tom ended up getting waffles, but he also got pork products in 3 different ways (sausage, bacon and ham). This is the same person who says I make him fat. At any rate, here's my waffle, which was very yummy and well cooked.And here's my side of homefries. It was massive, but it had lots of crispy parts, just they way I like it. This meal was much better than the one we'd had at Denny's a few days earlier, and was also better than the meal I'd had at Bubby's. So if you ever happen to be on Victory Blvd. in Staten Island, definitely drop by this place. And here's a final pic of Tom. He won't be seeing it for a few days since he's at home, sick, so enjoy it before he makes me take it down.All in all, it was a good Thanksgiving. It was very tiring with all the driving, though, it was great to be back home just to get some rest.
Thursday, November 30, 2006
THANKSGIVING WEEKEND POST, PHILADELPHIA
This Thanksgiving, Tom and I decided to go down to Philadelphia and New York. We spent 15 hours in a car over 3 days, and have now decided to spend the next Thanksgiving in Boston. However, I was glad to get back to Philly. I hadn't been there in some time and it really is a great town. So early Wednesday morning, we picked up Leah (who was going to her brother's place in Philly for Thanksgiving) and we headed down. Luckily, we didn't hit much traffic. Unluckily, we got a bit off track and ended up on a one hour detour. But we still made it into the city in about 7 hours, which was pretty damn good for the day before Thanksgiving.
Every time I go back to Philly, I drop by Petit 4 Pastry Studio. It's the place where I got my start in the food biz. I was really lucky to have a boss like Joe who gave me a chance and taught me so much about pastry and the industry. Unfortunately, I was looking up Petit 4 on Chowhound right before we left and found out that it had closed in September. I wasn't overly surprised, it's such a hard industry, and they were around for 6 years, but I was heartbroken. I still am, really, cause that shop was one of my favorite places in the world, and it's not there anymore. I made Tom drive by it, just so I could see with my own eyes that it wasn't there anymore, and sure enough, it is now an ice cream store. Sigh.
So our first stop was the Reading Terminal Market. I used to come here in college to do some of my shopping. Basically, it's an indoor market created from an old train station. There are lots of booths where you can get food and other supplies. Here's a pic of a cheese vendor.And here's another pic of Leah buying some bread and pies.I was really looking foward to chowing down at the market, but the thing about sitting in a car is that you don't burn calories while sitting. So I wasn't hungry, and neither was Leah. We wandered around the market for a bit and eventually took a seat, waiting for the arrival of my friend, Sugata. In the meantime, I had a slice of Leah's cheese bread.It was pretty good, though kinda dry. I could see it being wonderful toasted with some butter, or as part of a grilled cheese sandwich.
When my buddy Sug finally arrived, we headed out to Capogiro, which I've written about before, but is the only place I've found in the U.S. where you can get Italian quality gelato. I'd only been here once before, so I actually walked by it, but good thing Tom and Leah noticed. Here's a pic of their case (Yes, that is avocado flavored gelato in the middle)And here's my dish of pomegranete and chocolate gelato. We each got a medium size dish (and this place is freaking expensive, but worth it). And it wasn't as sublime as the first time I'd had it, maybe it was the flavors I picked? But it was still the best gelato I've had in the U.S.After a trip to the Naked Chocolate Cafe, we dropped Leah off at the train station so she could head over to meet her brother, and Tom and I headed back to Sug's place. At Sug's suggestion, we decided to eat at Mama Palma's that evening. The thing about Philly is that it really is so small and accessible that I could visit all these places I'd gone to in college. Mama Palma's was actually located on the same block as the apartment I lived in my senior year of college. I used to order out from there, but had never actually eaten inside the restaurant.The place wasn't crowded, but it did have several tables of families with their screaming children in tow. Clearly, it's a "family friendly" establishment, though not so friendly for the single diners who just want to have a quiet dinner. I'm looking online now and can't find a menu for the place, but we ordered two medium size pizzas to share.
The first is a peking duck pizza.It reminded me a lot of the CPK peking duck pizza, though not as well made. The duck on this one was pretty overcooked, but it was still tasty.
At Sug's suggestion, we also ordered a pizza with marscapone and pistachios (they were whole) . I ended up liking this pizza more than the duck one, so if you're ever in Philly, check it out.It would've been nice if we'd had more energy to go out that night, but we were all exhausted. I guess that's what happens when you get older. I hope to spend a little more time in Philly during my next visit, though, and then we can get Tom his cheesesteak from Geno's.
This Thanksgiving, Tom and I decided to go down to Philadelphia and New York. We spent 15 hours in a car over 3 days, and have now decided to spend the next Thanksgiving in Boston. However, I was glad to get back to Philly. I hadn't been there in some time and it really is a great town. So early Wednesday morning, we picked up Leah (who was going to her brother's place in Philly for Thanksgiving) and we headed down. Luckily, we didn't hit much traffic. Unluckily, we got a bit off track and ended up on a one hour detour. But we still made it into the city in about 7 hours, which was pretty damn good for the day before Thanksgiving.
Every time I go back to Philly, I drop by Petit 4 Pastry Studio. It's the place where I got my start in the food biz. I was really lucky to have a boss like Joe who gave me a chance and taught me so much about pastry and the industry. Unfortunately, I was looking up Petit 4 on Chowhound right before we left and found out that it had closed in September. I wasn't overly surprised, it's such a hard industry, and they were around for 6 years, but I was heartbroken. I still am, really, cause that shop was one of my favorite places in the world, and it's not there anymore. I made Tom drive by it, just so I could see with my own eyes that it wasn't there anymore, and sure enough, it is now an ice cream store. Sigh.
So our first stop was the Reading Terminal Market. I used to come here in college to do some of my shopping. Basically, it's an indoor market created from an old train station. There are lots of booths where you can get food and other supplies. Here's a pic of a cheese vendor.And here's another pic of Leah buying some bread and pies.I was really looking foward to chowing down at the market, but the thing about sitting in a car is that you don't burn calories while sitting. So I wasn't hungry, and neither was Leah. We wandered around the market for a bit and eventually took a seat, waiting for the arrival of my friend, Sugata. In the meantime, I had a slice of Leah's cheese bread.It was pretty good, though kinda dry. I could see it being wonderful toasted with some butter, or as part of a grilled cheese sandwich.
When my buddy Sug finally arrived, we headed out to Capogiro, which I've written about before, but is the only place I've found in the U.S. where you can get Italian quality gelato. I'd only been here once before, so I actually walked by it, but good thing Tom and Leah noticed. Here's a pic of their case (Yes, that is avocado flavored gelato in the middle)And here's my dish of pomegranete and chocolate gelato. We each got a medium size dish (and this place is freaking expensive, but worth it). And it wasn't as sublime as the first time I'd had it, maybe it was the flavors I picked? But it was still the best gelato I've had in the U.S.After a trip to the Naked Chocolate Cafe, we dropped Leah off at the train station so she could head over to meet her brother, and Tom and I headed back to Sug's place. At Sug's suggestion, we decided to eat at Mama Palma's that evening. The thing about Philly is that it really is so small and accessible that I could visit all these places I'd gone to in college. Mama Palma's was actually located on the same block as the apartment I lived in my senior year of college. I used to order out from there, but had never actually eaten inside the restaurant.The place wasn't crowded, but it did have several tables of families with their screaming children in tow. Clearly, it's a "family friendly" establishment, though not so friendly for the single diners who just want to have a quiet dinner. I'm looking online now and can't find a menu for the place, but we ordered two medium size pizzas to share.
The first is a peking duck pizza.It reminded me a lot of the CPK peking duck pizza, though not as well made. The duck on this one was pretty overcooked, but it was still tasty.
At Sug's suggestion, we also ordered a pizza with marscapone and pistachios (they were whole) . I ended up liking this pizza more than the duck one, so if you're ever in Philly, check it out.It would've been nice if we'd had more energy to go out that night, but we were all exhausted. I guess that's what happens when you get older. I hope to spend a little more time in Philly during my next visit, though, and then we can get Tom his cheesesteak from Geno's.
NEW YORK, DAY 3:
Ok, so after a long delay, I'm back to blogging. Sorry, it's the holiday season people. I'm busy. (sort of) At any rate, on our last day in New York, we met up with family at Bubby's in Tribeca. Now I'd heard of Bubby's before. It's a famous for it's brunch, for the long lines and for the no reservation policy. We were supposed to meet at 11, but Tom and I get there nearly 30 minutes early, arriving at about 10:30. This turned out to be a good thing since we were able to put our names in for a table. The not so great thing was that it was cold and sprinkly, though not yet raining. I was also getting over a cold that weekend, so I was not thrilled to be standing outside in the cold.
Here's a pic of the exterior of the placeAnd another shot of people waiting outside. The were a good number of using standing there, just waiting to get in. At 11, Tom's brother and brother's fiancee arrived and it was another 20 minutes before my cousin, Jeany arrived. Did I mention that you have to have your whole party present to get a table? At any rate, we were finally allowed in at 11:30, where I promptly began to defrost.
So Bubby's is going for that down home southern feeling. They serve you biscuits when you sit down, and they were pretty good. But it's so crowded that the waiters are always just trying to keep up, and service is pretty spotty.I ended up ordering the sourdough pancakes with turkey sausage and eggs. And I gotta say, I wasn't thrilled. I'd never had sourdough pancakes before, and I was expecting them to have a slight tanginess, but not as much as were in these. Plus the sausage and eggs were kinda cold by the time they arrived to our table. I think my cousin summed it up pretty well, Bubby's is pretty good, but definitely not worth the wait. So next time I'm in NY, I'd rather visit Congee Village or another local place, where I'll get seated faster and have better food.
Ok, so after a long delay, I'm back to blogging. Sorry, it's the holiday season people. I'm busy. (sort of) At any rate, on our last day in New York, we met up with family at Bubby's in Tribeca. Now I'd heard of Bubby's before. It's a famous for it's brunch, for the long lines and for the no reservation policy. We were supposed to meet at 11, but Tom and I get there nearly 30 minutes early, arriving at about 10:30. This turned out to be a good thing since we were able to put our names in for a table. The not so great thing was that it was cold and sprinkly, though not yet raining. I was also getting over a cold that weekend, so I was not thrilled to be standing outside in the cold.
Here's a pic of the exterior of the placeAnd another shot of people waiting outside. The were a good number of using standing there, just waiting to get in. At 11, Tom's brother and brother's fiancee arrived and it was another 20 minutes before my cousin, Jeany arrived. Did I mention that you have to have your whole party present to get a table? At any rate, we were finally allowed in at 11:30, where I promptly began to defrost.
So Bubby's is going for that down home southern feeling. They serve you biscuits when you sit down, and they were pretty good. But it's so crowded that the waiters are always just trying to keep up, and service is pretty spotty.I ended up ordering the sourdough pancakes with turkey sausage and eggs. And I gotta say, I wasn't thrilled. I'd never had sourdough pancakes before, and I was expecting them to have a slight tanginess, but not as much as were in these. Plus the sausage and eggs were kinda cold by the time they arrived to our table. I think my cousin summed it up pretty well, Bubby's is pretty good, but definitely not worth the wait. So next time I'm in NY, I'd rather visit Congee Village or another local place, where I'll get seated faster and have better food.
Thursday, November 16, 2006
NEW YORK, DAY 2: CITY BAKERY AND PER SE
Do you ever have those days where it feels like the longest day ever? And you look at the clock and realize that you still have 4.5 hours left at work. So why not blog? Especially before I forget all the food that we had at Per Se last Saturday night.
But first, let me start with a review of City Bakery, since I actually took pictures of that meal, and I know that you're all really here to look at pictures of food. We had finished up at the Chocolate Show and were pretty hungry. Luckily, City Bakery was just a block down, so we headed there to fill our tummies and grab a quick lunch. We we entered, the place was already packed, and they were just switching food over from breakfast to lunch, so luckily, we got a nice pick of food just fresh out of the kitchen. We all wanted to be pretty moderate with our lunch, knowing that we had that big dinner at Per Se coming up in a few hours. After picking up our food and paying (it's cafeteria style at City Bakery) we headed to the second floor where we were able to snag a table. So here's what I got:
What you're looking at are two little sandwiches and a bowl of miso mushroom soup. The sandwiches were small and at $3/ea, they weren't cheap. But all was forgiven due to the high quality of the ingredients. I had a smoked salmon and avocado sandwich, and they were super generous with the avocado and a gruyere sandwich (my favorite cheese!). The miso mushroom soup didn't really taste like it had any miso, but it was still packed with mushrooms and pretty tasty.
Tom got a plate of mixed veggies and some smoked tofu. He definitely enjoyed his roasted brussel sprouts and the tofu.And Juliet just got a plate of roasted veggies. Her favorites were also the brussel sprouts and thai eggplant.
We didn't grab any of the famed City Bakery pastries, cause like I said, we were trying to save our tummies for dinner, but they certainly looked great.
After an afternoon of running errands and visiting a couple of chocolate shops (Max Brenner is huge, but was also packed) we got ready to go to dinner. As I had told you in a previous post, when I made my reservations at Per Se, we didn't have much choice about the time. We were given a choice of 6:15 or 9:15, and I chose 6:15 since I didn't want to be eating dinner until midnight.
Here's a pic a got when we arrived at the Time Warner Center, right outside the doors of Per Se. And yes, this is your last picture today.So when you enter Per Se, they have a huge set of fake doors. To the left and right of those doors, there are actually automatic glass doors. When we entered, the entry way was empty, save for the hostess stand, where we were greeted by two nice ladies who took our coats. Behind the hostess stand was a long entryway/lounge area where you could sit and have cocktails while waiting for your reservation or for the rest of your party to arrive. Since Sue Min was running a bit late, we decided to have a seat in the dining room at our table to wait for her.
We were lead into a dining room with very high ceilings and huge windows that faced out onto Central Park and Columbus Circle. Unfortunately, we were seated at a table towards the back, so we couldn't look out the windows. Juliet and I also quickly noticed how cold it was inside the restaurant, and I regretted not bringing a shawl or something to drape over my shoulders. All the tables at the restaurant are pretty widely spaced out, so conversation from other tables won't interfere with your dinner. And of course, as I explained in a previous post, it was very dimly lit inside, so I quickly realized that it wouldn't be possible to take any photos.
So at Per Se, you get to choose from 3 different set menus, every one costs the same, $210. The first has 7 courses, the Chef's tasting has nine courses and there's also a vegetarian menu with 7 courses. If had heard that the portions on the Chef's tasting were smaller than the 7 course menu, but this is absolutely not true. If you can get the Chef's tasting, go for it. Prior to seeing the menu, I had already decided that I was going to get the chef's tasting, but after scanning that night's offering, I also realized that I wouldn't eat about 2/3 of the items on the menu (no oysters, beef, pork, etc etc for me). So I decided that the best thing for me was to go with the 7 course menu. Everyone else at the table got the 9 course. Our waiter was super nice. He took our orders without writing them down, and was very accomadating with our requests to change certain items, but Juliet and Sue Min had so many different requests in changing their set menus, that he had forgotten a number of changes and had to return to clarify it.
Just like at Enoteca the night before, it's really the small touches that make the difference with service. Our water glasses were constantly refilled, without our asking or even noticing. We had one waiter, but several different servers. Actually, I think there were enough servers on the floor to match the number of diners. And with every single course, they explained to us what we were having. Ok, so I'm going to have a hard enough time remembering what I had, so I'll try to reconstruct that to the best of my ability and throw in what I remember from the Chef's tasting menu. I do know that the rest of the table started with the oysters and pearls, which is a famous Keller dish. It was served in a little pot, with two perfectly round oysters set in caviar and tapioca (which mimicked the texture of caviar) and eaten with tiny spoons made of mother of pearl. Everyone at the table loved it. Meanwhile, I started with a not as spectacular dish, a shrimp tempura type thing, which was well prepared, but nothing exciting.
However, my next dish was my favorite thing of the night, and I can still recall it to this moment. I think I'll remember it for quite sometime. It was a chestnut agnolotti, which seems so simple, but was so good. It was basically a homemade pasta with a chestnut filling, but the filling was amazing. So creamy and flavorful, and it just burst when you bit into it. Ahhhhhhh, yummy. I would've gladly eaten a plate of just that. The second course for the Chef's tasting was supposed to be some pineapple and ham thing. Juliet ordered it at the suggestion of our waiter, but she didn't love it. Sue min got the same dish I had gotten and Tom splurged and got the $30 fois gras supplement. You may have heard of Thomas Keller's famous fois gras torchon, the Amateur Gourmet wrote about it recently and it takes like 4 days to make. That's what Tom got. It was a pretty large serving and it was served with freshly toasted brioche. The cool thing was that when Tom was halfway through is brioche, they brought him out a new, fresh toasted slice cause the previous slice had gotten cold. (He didn't ask for this, they just did it)
Meanwhile, we were also given our choice of freshly baked bread, and that was served with the famous butter that Thomas Keller gets. The unsalted butter came from CA, the salted butter (which I've read about) came from some dairy farmer in the Northeast. I can't remember her name, but the butter was fantastic. I think I sat out the third course, while the rest of the table had fish. Well, Juliet had squab, but was unhappy when I told her the squab was related to pigeon. That ruined it for her, but I was in love with the little salad that was served with the fish. Again, I don't remember what it was, but it was amazing. Another high point of the meal for me.
There was a pause in the meal as we were each served a little roll of bread, that is baked fresh for each table. I slathered mine with butter and gobbled it down. I think I also sat out the next course, while the rest of the table had lobster. The lobster was very sweet, but certainly not anything better than the fresh lobster we got in Maine during the summer.
And the meal continued. I got my fish course, which was allright, not my favorite thing, while the rest of the table had lamb? I think that was it. At this point, I was starting to figure out why someone would order the vegetarian menu, since everything I loved so far didn't involve meat. Oh wait, now I remember, the guys on the 9 course also got a chicken cooked sous vide, which was also something I was excited about. Sue min wasn't overly excited about chicken, so she gave me most of hers, and to be honest, it wasn't anything spectacular. It was juicy and tender, but not all that flavorful.
Moving on, I got my duck course, that was served with a piece of seared fois gras (I gave that to Sue Min and Juliet to split, the actually liked it more than the torchon). I think i've lost count at this point as to which course we're on. We filled in the holes with more bread. And we were quite full at this point, but the food kept coming. Actually, I wasn't as full as the 9 course people, but I think that was a good thing. Did I mention that dinner took 3.5 hours? Ok, so during my bathroom break, it was also really cool cause our waiter noticed that that's where I was headed, and he actually escorted me. At this point in the meal, I actually thought about it. With the quality of food and service, (and given that the service is included in the price) maybe this is more of a deal than people think. I mean, $210 is a big number, but I've been to a number of expensive dinners that have come close to that per head (given I've never actually paid) and really, the quality didn't come close to this meal. Anyway, something to think about.
I'm moving on, though. Ok, we were given a cheese course, served with its own bread selection, of course, but i didn't love it, cause it was a soft cheese. I ended up trading Juliet for her cheese, but hers was semi-soft, too, and I'm much more of a hard cheese fan.
Next was our sorbet (palate cleanser) course. I had a grapefruit sorbet, while the rest of the table had an amazing guava sorbet. I wish I'd had that. It was so intensely flavored and simple, yet delicious.
And we ended (almost) with our dessert course. I got a deconstructed smores while Juliet and Tom got a deconstructed snickers. Sue min didn't want either, so they made her some tropical dessert, which she liked a lot. Now I'm not a big fan of deconstructed desserts. I liked my smores cause the homemade marshmallows were excellent, but I wouldn't have minded something a little more traditional. After dessert, it was time for petit fours. First, we were present with a selection of chocolates made in house. We were allowed to have as many as we wanted. I had 2 while everyone else got 3. They were pretty well made. The quality of the chocolate wasn't top notch, I would've preferred something with more depth, but considering it was made in a restaurant kitchen, it was great. We were then given a little candy dish caddy thing with caramels, nougats and homemade truffles. I stole all the caramels, I have them hidden away somewhere, and haven't even eaten one. And we were given a bowl of chocolate covered almonds, that were delicious. I ate a ton of those. And finally, finally, they gave us each a little tower of macaroons to take home with us... The macaroons were ok, certainly not as good as the ones we'd gotten in Paris, but it was a nice touch. When you threw in the tax, the entire bill ended up being $240/person. (Juliet paid a little extra for her $17 martini)
All in all, it was an amazing meal. Not something I'll be doing again any time soon, but certainly a wonderful once in a lifetime experience. I can't wait for dinner at the French Laundry, one day.
Do you ever have those days where it feels like the longest day ever? And you look at the clock and realize that you still have 4.5 hours left at work. So why not blog? Especially before I forget all the food that we had at Per Se last Saturday night.
But first, let me start with a review of City Bakery, since I actually took pictures of that meal, and I know that you're all really here to look at pictures of food. We had finished up at the Chocolate Show and were pretty hungry. Luckily, City Bakery was just a block down, so we headed there to fill our tummies and grab a quick lunch. We we entered, the place was already packed, and they were just switching food over from breakfast to lunch, so luckily, we got a nice pick of food just fresh out of the kitchen. We all wanted to be pretty moderate with our lunch, knowing that we had that big dinner at Per Se coming up in a few hours. After picking up our food and paying (it's cafeteria style at City Bakery) we headed to the second floor where we were able to snag a table. So here's what I got:
What you're looking at are two little sandwiches and a bowl of miso mushroom soup. The sandwiches were small and at $3/ea, they weren't cheap. But all was forgiven due to the high quality of the ingredients. I had a smoked salmon and avocado sandwich, and they were super generous with the avocado and a gruyere sandwich (my favorite cheese!). The miso mushroom soup didn't really taste like it had any miso, but it was still packed with mushrooms and pretty tasty.
Tom got a plate of mixed veggies and some smoked tofu. He definitely enjoyed his roasted brussel sprouts and the tofu.And Juliet just got a plate of roasted veggies. Her favorites were also the brussel sprouts and thai eggplant.
We didn't grab any of the famed City Bakery pastries, cause like I said, we were trying to save our tummies for dinner, but they certainly looked great.
After an afternoon of running errands and visiting a couple of chocolate shops (Max Brenner is huge, but was also packed) we got ready to go to dinner. As I had told you in a previous post, when I made my reservations at Per Se, we didn't have much choice about the time. We were given a choice of 6:15 or 9:15, and I chose 6:15 since I didn't want to be eating dinner until midnight.
Here's a pic a got when we arrived at the Time Warner Center, right outside the doors of Per Se. And yes, this is your last picture today.So when you enter Per Se, they have a huge set of fake doors. To the left and right of those doors, there are actually automatic glass doors. When we entered, the entry way was empty, save for the hostess stand, where we were greeted by two nice ladies who took our coats. Behind the hostess stand was a long entryway/lounge area where you could sit and have cocktails while waiting for your reservation or for the rest of your party to arrive. Since Sue Min was running a bit late, we decided to have a seat in the dining room at our table to wait for her.
We were lead into a dining room with very high ceilings and huge windows that faced out onto Central Park and Columbus Circle. Unfortunately, we were seated at a table towards the back, so we couldn't look out the windows. Juliet and I also quickly noticed how cold it was inside the restaurant, and I regretted not bringing a shawl or something to drape over my shoulders. All the tables at the restaurant are pretty widely spaced out, so conversation from other tables won't interfere with your dinner. And of course, as I explained in a previous post, it was very dimly lit inside, so I quickly realized that it wouldn't be possible to take any photos.
So at Per Se, you get to choose from 3 different set menus, every one costs the same, $210. The first has 7 courses, the Chef's tasting has nine courses and there's also a vegetarian menu with 7 courses. If had heard that the portions on the Chef's tasting were smaller than the 7 course menu, but this is absolutely not true. If you can get the Chef's tasting, go for it. Prior to seeing the menu, I had already decided that I was going to get the chef's tasting, but after scanning that night's offering, I also realized that I wouldn't eat about 2/3 of the items on the menu (no oysters, beef, pork, etc etc for me). So I decided that the best thing for me was to go with the 7 course menu. Everyone else at the table got the 9 course. Our waiter was super nice. He took our orders without writing them down, and was very accomadating with our requests to change certain items, but Juliet and Sue Min had so many different requests in changing their set menus, that he had forgotten a number of changes and had to return to clarify it.
Just like at Enoteca the night before, it's really the small touches that make the difference with service. Our water glasses were constantly refilled, without our asking or even noticing. We had one waiter, but several different servers. Actually, I think there were enough servers on the floor to match the number of diners. And with every single course, they explained to us what we were having. Ok, so I'm going to have a hard enough time remembering what I had, so I'll try to reconstruct that to the best of my ability and throw in what I remember from the Chef's tasting menu. I do know that the rest of the table started with the oysters and pearls, which is a famous Keller dish. It was served in a little pot, with two perfectly round oysters set in caviar and tapioca (which mimicked the texture of caviar) and eaten with tiny spoons made of mother of pearl. Everyone at the table loved it. Meanwhile, I started with a not as spectacular dish, a shrimp tempura type thing, which was well prepared, but nothing exciting.
However, my next dish was my favorite thing of the night, and I can still recall it to this moment. I think I'll remember it for quite sometime. It was a chestnut agnolotti, which seems so simple, but was so good. It was basically a homemade pasta with a chestnut filling, but the filling was amazing. So creamy and flavorful, and it just burst when you bit into it. Ahhhhhhh, yummy. I would've gladly eaten a plate of just that. The second course for the Chef's tasting was supposed to be some pineapple and ham thing. Juliet ordered it at the suggestion of our waiter, but she didn't love it. Sue min got the same dish I had gotten and Tom splurged and got the $30 fois gras supplement. You may have heard of Thomas Keller's famous fois gras torchon, the Amateur Gourmet wrote about it recently and it takes like 4 days to make. That's what Tom got. It was a pretty large serving and it was served with freshly toasted brioche. The cool thing was that when Tom was halfway through is brioche, they brought him out a new, fresh toasted slice cause the previous slice had gotten cold. (He didn't ask for this, they just did it)
Meanwhile, we were also given our choice of freshly baked bread, and that was served with the famous butter that Thomas Keller gets. The unsalted butter came from CA, the salted butter (which I've read about) came from some dairy farmer in the Northeast. I can't remember her name, but the butter was fantastic. I think I sat out the third course, while the rest of the table had fish. Well, Juliet had squab, but was unhappy when I told her the squab was related to pigeon. That ruined it for her, but I was in love with the little salad that was served with the fish. Again, I don't remember what it was, but it was amazing. Another high point of the meal for me.
There was a pause in the meal as we were each served a little roll of bread, that is baked fresh for each table. I slathered mine with butter and gobbled it down. I think I also sat out the next course, while the rest of the table had lobster. The lobster was very sweet, but certainly not anything better than the fresh lobster we got in Maine during the summer.
And the meal continued. I got my fish course, which was allright, not my favorite thing, while the rest of the table had lamb? I think that was it. At this point, I was starting to figure out why someone would order the vegetarian menu, since everything I loved so far didn't involve meat. Oh wait, now I remember, the guys on the 9 course also got a chicken cooked sous vide, which was also something I was excited about. Sue min wasn't overly excited about chicken, so she gave me most of hers, and to be honest, it wasn't anything spectacular. It was juicy and tender, but not all that flavorful.
Moving on, I got my duck course, that was served with a piece of seared fois gras (I gave that to Sue Min and Juliet to split, the actually liked it more than the torchon). I think i've lost count at this point as to which course we're on. We filled in the holes with more bread. And we were quite full at this point, but the food kept coming. Actually, I wasn't as full as the 9 course people, but I think that was a good thing. Did I mention that dinner took 3.5 hours? Ok, so during my bathroom break, it was also really cool cause our waiter noticed that that's where I was headed, and he actually escorted me. At this point in the meal, I actually thought about it. With the quality of food and service, (and given that the service is included in the price) maybe this is more of a deal than people think. I mean, $210 is a big number, but I've been to a number of expensive dinners that have come close to that per head (given I've never actually paid) and really, the quality didn't come close to this meal. Anyway, something to think about.
I'm moving on, though. Ok, we were given a cheese course, served with its own bread selection, of course, but i didn't love it, cause it was a soft cheese. I ended up trading Juliet for her cheese, but hers was semi-soft, too, and I'm much more of a hard cheese fan.
Next was our sorbet (palate cleanser) course. I had a grapefruit sorbet, while the rest of the table had an amazing guava sorbet. I wish I'd had that. It was so intensely flavored and simple, yet delicious.
And we ended (almost) with our dessert course. I got a deconstructed smores while Juliet and Tom got a deconstructed snickers. Sue min didn't want either, so they made her some tropical dessert, which she liked a lot. Now I'm not a big fan of deconstructed desserts. I liked my smores cause the homemade marshmallows were excellent, but I wouldn't have minded something a little more traditional. After dessert, it was time for petit fours. First, we were present with a selection of chocolates made in house. We were allowed to have as many as we wanted. I had 2 while everyone else got 3. They were pretty well made. The quality of the chocolate wasn't top notch, I would've preferred something with more depth, but considering it was made in a restaurant kitchen, it was great. We were then given a little candy dish caddy thing with caramels, nougats and homemade truffles. I stole all the caramels, I have them hidden away somewhere, and haven't even eaten one. And we were given a bowl of chocolate covered almonds, that were delicious. I ate a ton of those. And finally, finally, they gave us each a little tower of macaroons to take home with us... The macaroons were ok, certainly not as good as the ones we'd gotten in Paris, but it was a nice touch. When you threw in the tax, the entire bill ended up being $240/person. (Juliet paid a little extra for her $17 martini)
All in all, it was an amazing meal. Not something I'll be doing again any time soon, but certainly a wonderful once in a lifetime experience. I can't wait for dinner at the French Laundry, one day.
Tuesday, November 14, 2006
THE DEL POST-O
Ok ok, cheesy title. But I had to do it. Well, you guys are all gonna hate me, cause despite having some great meals in New York this past weekend, I barely took any pics. But I don't think it's fair to blame me. You gotta blame the restaurants with their low lighting, which made it impossible for me to take any decent pics without flash. (And no, I wasn't gonna be firing away with the flash during the meal).
As you all know, I was planning on making up our disappointing dining in Paris with some excellent dining in NY. So on Friday night, we drove down. I wanted to eat at Enoteca, which is a little lounge area within Mario Batali's Del Posto Restaurant. It's right off the bar and separate from the main restaurant, and you can get smaller dishes for much less than a normal dinner at Del Posto. Of course, you still get amazing service and great food since, the staff and the kitchen are still the same. The thing with Enoteca is that they only take reservations starting at 10am the day of. So of course, I was on my cell phone at 10am. Luckily, it only took 2 calls to get through, and I was only on hold for 10 minutes. I made a reservation for 3 at 8:30.
We ended up in NY much earlier than we had planned. We didn't run into much traffic, which was a good thing, especially on a Friday night. So I called Enoteca, and tried to move up our reservation, but they were full. No problem. We ended up grabbing a quick snack and showed up for our reservation on time. Now, Del Posto is one of those mega restaurants located in Chelsea on 10th Ave. (right across the street from Morimoto). It's a huge, elegant restaurant, with a large double stair case in back, all marble and dark wood.
We were quickly shown to our table. Del Posto has this great deal when you get four courses for $41. You get to pick from the entire menu, and you get your choice of one appetizer, a primi, a secondi and a dessert. The whole table needs to participate, but we had no problem with that. Juliet, who also went with us, got a wine pairing for an additional $19. After we ordered, we got a lovely basket of homemade breads, served with butter and a side of whipped lardo (aka smoked pork fat, if you've ever watched Molto Mario, Mario Batali loves to use this stuff).
For my first course, I got the autumn vegetables with saba. This wasn't the most creative thing on the menu, but it was executed really well, and the best part was some type of lettuce veggie thingy that they used. Kinda like arugula, but I'm not sure what it was. It made the entire dish totally yummy. Tom got the octopus, which he liked a lot. It was very well prepared and tender, while Juliet ordered the Carpaccio. I think she was expecting something else, she was pretty surprised when the thinly pounded raw beef showed up, but she did eat most of it and found it very "beefy".
For the primi, I didn't have many choices since almost everything had beef or pork, so I got a well prepared penne with marinara. Nothing super exciting, but the pasta for all three of our dishes were perfectly cooked. Tom got the gnocchi, which he though was excellent and pillowy. Juliet got the orchiette, which I think she also enjoyed.
My secondi was my very favorite part of the meal, and perhaps the best thing I ate the entire weekend. It was turkey osso bucco. Now osso bucco is normally made with beef, but I had read reviews of the amazing turkey osso bucco and I was not disappointed. The meat just fell off the bone and was completely soft and tender. Also, it was served on something similar to polenta, though that wasn't quite what it was, but it just smelled of butter and was the most delicious thing you could imagine. Juliet said it tasted just like normal osso bucco. I loved it, but at this point, I'd gotten so full that I couldn't finish it all. Meanwhile, Juliet ordered more beef, which she didn't particularly like. She said it lacked flavor. Finally, Tom order the fried shrimp and artichoke alla Giudia. This is an authentic Roman dish, started in the Jewish ghettos of Rome. He found it a bit too salty, but I found the shrimp to be perfectly fried, and not overcooked at all.
To finish our meal, I had the trio of gelatos. I wasn't overly impressed with them. My favorite one was probably the caramel, but I think they could've been more intensely flavored. Tom ordered the sweet potato cake, which I found kinda odd and Juliet ordered the rum cake, which I didn't try (I'm not a fan of rum), but she enjoyed it a lot. The wine pairings that Juliet got were also very good, and an excellent deal at $19. I thought service was really great, too. It really made me miss how wonderful service really can be in NY. It does truly make a difference, the pacing of the meal, bringing out dishes all at once, just really small things. One thing I was impressed with was when our waitress began to pour Juliet one of her wines, and she ran out. So she went to get another bottle of wine. Now proper protocol is that you pour the new wine into a new glass, and not just add it into the previous glass, and the waitress did just that, also allowing Juliet to sample the bottle after she'd opened it. Yes, I know I'm picky, but for me, it really is all those small things that make the difference.
Overall, I thought our meal was excellent. So if you're in NY, you need to take advantage of this amazing deal. You'd be hard pressed to find something nearing the quality, service and price anywhere. So go now! Before they wise up and raise the prices. A wonderful meal to start off a yummy weekend of eating.
Ok ok, cheesy title. But I had to do it. Well, you guys are all gonna hate me, cause despite having some great meals in New York this past weekend, I barely took any pics. But I don't think it's fair to blame me. You gotta blame the restaurants with their low lighting, which made it impossible for me to take any decent pics without flash. (And no, I wasn't gonna be firing away with the flash during the meal).
As you all know, I was planning on making up our disappointing dining in Paris with some excellent dining in NY. So on Friday night, we drove down. I wanted to eat at Enoteca, which is a little lounge area within Mario Batali's Del Posto Restaurant. It's right off the bar and separate from the main restaurant, and you can get smaller dishes for much less than a normal dinner at Del Posto. Of course, you still get amazing service and great food since, the staff and the kitchen are still the same. The thing with Enoteca is that they only take reservations starting at 10am the day of. So of course, I was on my cell phone at 10am. Luckily, it only took 2 calls to get through, and I was only on hold for 10 minutes. I made a reservation for 3 at 8:30.
We ended up in NY much earlier than we had planned. We didn't run into much traffic, which was a good thing, especially on a Friday night. So I called Enoteca, and tried to move up our reservation, but they were full. No problem. We ended up grabbing a quick snack and showed up for our reservation on time. Now, Del Posto is one of those mega restaurants located in Chelsea on 10th Ave. (right across the street from Morimoto). It's a huge, elegant restaurant, with a large double stair case in back, all marble and dark wood.
We were quickly shown to our table. Del Posto has this great deal when you get four courses for $41. You get to pick from the entire menu, and you get your choice of one appetizer, a primi, a secondi and a dessert. The whole table needs to participate, but we had no problem with that. Juliet, who also went with us, got a wine pairing for an additional $19. After we ordered, we got a lovely basket of homemade breads, served with butter and a side of whipped lardo (aka smoked pork fat, if you've ever watched Molto Mario, Mario Batali loves to use this stuff).
For my first course, I got the autumn vegetables with saba. This wasn't the most creative thing on the menu, but it was executed really well, and the best part was some type of lettuce veggie thingy that they used. Kinda like arugula, but I'm not sure what it was. It made the entire dish totally yummy. Tom got the octopus, which he liked a lot. It was very well prepared and tender, while Juliet ordered the Carpaccio. I think she was expecting something else, she was pretty surprised when the thinly pounded raw beef showed up, but she did eat most of it and found it very "beefy".
For the primi, I didn't have many choices since almost everything had beef or pork, so I got a well prepared penne with marinara. Nothing super exciting, but the pasta for all three of our dishes were perfectly cooked. Tom got the gnocchi, which he though was excellent and pillowy. Juliet got the orchiette, which I think she also enjoyed.
My secondi was my very favorite part of the meal, and perhaps the best thing I ate the entire weekend. It was turkey osso bucco. Now osso bucco is normally made with beef, but I had read reviews of the amazing turkey osso bucco and I was not disappointed. The meat just fell off the bone and was completely soft and tender. Also, it was served on something similar to polenta, though that wasn't quite what it was, but it just smelled of butter and was the most delicious thing you could imagine. Juliet said it tasted just like normal osso bucco. I loved it, but at this point, I'd gotten so full that I couldn't finish it all. Meanwhile, Juliet ordered more beef, which she didn't particularly like. She said it lacked flavor. Finally, Tom order the fried shrimp and artichoke alla Giudia. This is an authentic Roman dish, started in the Jewish ghettos of Rome. He found it a bit too salty, but I found the shrimp to be perfectly fried, and not overcooked at all.
To finish our meal, I had the trio of gelatos. I wasn't overly impressed with them. My favorite one was probably the caramel, but I think they could've been more intensely flavored. Tom ordered the sweet potato cake, which I found kinda odd and Juliet ordered the rum cake, which I didn't try (I'm not a fan of rum), but she enjoyed it a lot. The wine pairings that Juliet got were also very good, and an excellent deal at $19. I thought service was really great, too. It really made me miss how wonderful service really can be in NY. It does truly make a difference, the pacing of the meal, bringing out dishes all at once, just really small things. One thing I was impressed with was when our waitress began to pour Juliet one of her wines, and she ran out. So she went to get another bottle of wine. Now proper protocol is that you pour the new wine into a new glass, and not just add it into the previous glass, and the waitress did just that, also allowing Juliet to sample the bottle after she'd opened it. Yes, I know I'm picky, but for me, it really is all those small things that make the difference.
Overall, I thought our meal was excellent. So if you're in NY, you need to take advantage of this amazing deal. You'd be hard pressed to find something nearing the quality, service and price anywhere. So go now! Before they wise up and raise the prices. A wonderful meal to start off a yummy weekend of eating.
Thursday, November 09, 2006
IS IT ALLSTON OR BRIGHTON?
This is for Sue Min, cause she meebo-ed me and pointed out that I hadn't blogged today.
Really, can someone explain to me where Brighton ends and Allston begins? Or vice versa? I never really know if I'm in Allston or Brighton, unless I'm in Brighton Center, which is self explanatory. And it's not like Allston/Brighton are different towns like Brookline. It's still all part of Boston. So confusing, but that's Boston for ya. At any rate, I digress. Last week, Tom and wanted to grab a quick lunch before seeing Flushed Away. So I suggested we try out May's Cafe, somewhere in Allston/Brighton. I read that this was a Taiwanese place, so I wanted to check it out and compare it to the other places I've been. Plus I wanted noodle soup.
So off we went. We were lucky to find some parking near the intersection of Harvard and Comm Ave. and we walked the rest of the way, just a few blocks, to the restaurant. It kinda appeared out of nowhere, since it's set on a very residential street. But I was happy to find it filled with a couple of tables of Asians when we arrived. It's a small, narrow restaurant, with not more than 8 tables, and it's very sparsely decorated.
So after looking at then menu, we decided to order a few appetizers and noodles. I ordered some cold tofu and seaweed. I found it very yummy, especially the tofu. Tom ordered the scallion pancake. It was pretty good. Not too greasy. But it was hard for me to tell if it was store bought or home made. Tom liked it more than I did. I still prefer the ones at Shangri-la. But i did like the dipping sauce. Here are my noodles. I got the fried chicken noodle soup, something I eat often at Taiwanese restaurants, if you go back and search my posts. In this case, I thought the noodles and soup were really tasty, but the chicken lacked flavor. It could've used some salt or marinade or something. It wasn't as flavorful as the chicken that I've had at Wisteria house, but I was also happy that when you bit into it, you didn't feel all the oil and MSG coating your tongue like the chicken at Wisteria. And here's Tom's "famous" pan fried noodles with chicken, cabbage and mushroom. I also found Tom's dish pretty tasty, but he felt there were too many noodles, and not enough of the other stuff.Over all, May's Cafe was very reasonably priced and the food was quite tasty. If was located on St. Mary's, I'd totally go more often, like when I go to Sushi Express or Han River. But for me, if I'm gonna drive somewhere to get Taiwanese food, I'd rather have it at Mulan in Cambridge or at Shangri La in Belmont.
This is for Sue Min, cause she meebo-ed me and pointed out that I hadn't blogged today.
Really, can someone explain to me where Brighton ends and Allston begins? Or vice versa? I never really know if I'm in Allston or Brighton, unless I'm in Brighton Center, which is self explanatory. And it's not like Allston/Brighton are different towns like Brookline. It's still all part of Boston. So confusing, but that's Boston for ya. At any rate, I digress. Last week, Tom and wanted to grab a quick lunch before seeing Flushed Away. So I suggested we try out May's Cafe, somewhere in Allston/Brighton. I read that this was a Taiwanese place, so I wanted to check it out and compare it to the other places I've been. Plus I wanted noodle soup.
So off we went. We were lucky to find some parking near the intersection of Harvard and Comm Ave. and we walked the rest of the way, just a few blocks, to the restaurant. It kinda appeared out of nowhere, since it's set on a very residential street. But I was happy to find it filled with a couple of tables of Asians when we arrived. It's a small, narrow restaurant, with not more than 8 tables, and it's very sparsely decorated.
So after looking at then menu, we decided to order a few appetizers and noodles. I ordered some cold tofu and seaweed. I found it very yummy, especially the tofu. Tom ordered the scallion pancake. It was pretty good. Not too greasy. But it was hard for me to tell if it was store bought or home made. Tom liked it more than I did. I still prefer the ones at Shangri-la. But i did like the dipping sauce. Here are my noodles. I got the fried chicken noodle soup, something I eat often at Taiwanese restaurants, if you go back and search my posts. In this case, I thought the noodles and soup were really tasty, but the chicken lacked flavor. It could've used some salt or marinade or something. It wasn't as flavorful as the chicken that I've had at Wisteria house, but I was also happy that when you bit into it, you didn't feel all the oil and MSG coating your tongue like the chicken at Wisteria. And here's Tom's "famous" pan fried noodles with chicken, cabbage and mushroom. I also found Tom's dish pretty tasty, but he felt there were too many noodles, and not enough of the other stuff.Over all, May's Cafe was very reasonably priced and the food was quite tasty. If was located on St. Mary's, I'd totally go more often, like when I go to Sushi Express or Han River. But for me, if I'm gonna drive somewhere to get Taiwanese food, I'd rather have it at Mulan in Cambridge or at Shangri La in Belmont.
Tuesday, November 07, 2006
PARIS: DAY 4, THE LAST DAY
Well, it was our last day in Paris. But our flight wasn't taking off until the early evening, which meant that we had time to continue exploring the city and also visiting a few more chocolate shops. Oh, also, as promised, here's the tabblo with pics of all the chocolate shops we visited. Please look at it; it took me 2 hours!
Hands down, my favorite chocolate shop in Paris is now Michel Chaudun. I bought a box of his chocolates and almost finished off the entire box by myself the day after I got back. Sigh. So yummy. When good chocolates around, I just can't stop myself from eating them all up! And I liked the fact that he was actually at his shop.
Tom and I spent most of the morning walking up and down the Champs Elysee. So here's a hilarious thing that I spotted while we were walking. Look closely. Just think, this is mounted on a wall outside the Swatch store on the Champs Elysee. Excellent. After walking for a while, we needed a break. So off we went to Angelina, that famous Parisian hot chocolate shop. I have a soft spot for Angelina's since it was the first place where I ever had real hot chocolate. When I was a college student we went right after visiting the Louvre (after having spent 3 hours in the rain waiting to get into the damn place). So we were cold and wet and I never really noticed the surroundings. On my second trip there, I noticed how over the top and gilded this place is. We arrive fairly early, so Tom ordered a brioche and coffee while I got a hot chocolate. Here it is:I gotta admit, the hot chocolate that I'd had at L'Charlotte d'Isle was much better than the stuff at Angelina's. But I liked the fact that Angelina's served their chocolate with a pot of fresh whipped cream on the side. It was sweeter and not as dense as the stuff at L'Charlotte, but it was still good.
After walking a bit more, we were ready for lunch. I had written down a place in the 9th that was known for good tartines (open face sandwiches), but it was closed when we arrived. Maybe they only serve dinner? At any rate, there was a cute like creperie on the same street, so we went there instead. We decided to sit outside, even though it was a cool day, cause it was on a cute little street and it's fun to people watch. I decided to get the 15E set menu while Tom just ordered a crepe. Here's my crepe, you can see it was served with a little pat of butter on top.And here it is cut open. I wanted to show you how orange the egg yolk was. Now that's fresh!After the crepe, I was supposed to get a green salad and a dessert crepe. But we waited and waited, and it was starting to get really cold and sprinkle a bit. So we gave up. (Right as Tom went in to pay, the dessert crepe was coming out, but what happened to the salad?) We turned it down and headed back to the hostel to check out and head to the airport. Wait, right after we went to this nice patisserie near the place we had lunch. I wish we'd had lunch there. It was warm inside.
In closing, I wouldn't say I had the best food in Paris on this trip. I guess we just really didn't have the time, and missed out on a lot of places for weird reasons (well, it is Paris after all). So maybe on the next trip. I'm making it up on my trip to NY this weekend. I was very happy with my chocolate purchases, though, and continue to make my way through those. In closing, here's a pic I took in the 9th. If you're unfamiliar with these, it's by a French artist who goes around putting these space invader mosaics up in different places. I'm sure there's a website or blog out there that tracks them. I've seen them in LA, too. And I know there are ones in NY. Neat, huh?
Well, it was our last day in Paris. But our flight wasn't taking off until the early evening, which meant that we had time to continue exploring the city and also visiting a few more chocolate shops. Oh, also, as promised, here's the tabblo with pics of all the chocolate shops we visited. Please look at it; it took me 2 hours!
Hands down, my favorite chocolate shop in Paris is now Michel Chaudun. I bought a box of his chocolates and almost finished off the entire box by myself the day after I got back. Sigh. So yummy. When good chocolates around, I just can't stop myself from eating them all up! And I liked the fact that he was actually at his shop.
Tom and I spent most of the morning walking up and down the Champs Elysee. So here's a hilarious thing that I spotted while we were walking. Look closely. Just think, this is mounted on a wall outside the Swatch store on the Champs Elysee. Excellent. After walking for a while, we needed a break. So off we went to Angelina, that famous Parisian hot chocolate shop. I have a soft spot for Angelina's since it was the first place where I ever had real hot chocolate. When I was a college student we went right after visiting the Louvre (after having spent 3 hours in the rain waiting to get into the damn place). So we were cold and wet and I never really noticed the surroundings. On my second trip there, I noticed how over the top and gilded this place is. We arrive fairly early, so Tom ordered a brioche and coffee while I got a hot chocolate. Here it is:I gotta admit, the hot chocolate that I'd had at L'Charlotte d'Isle was much better than the stuff at Angelina's. But I liked the fact that Angelina's served their chocolate with a pot of fresh whipped cream on the side. It was sweeter and not as dense as the stuff at L'Charlotte, but it was still good.
After walking a bit more, we were ready for lunch. I had written down a place in the 9th that was known for good tartines (open face sandwiches), but it was closed when we arrived. Maybe they only serve dinner? At any rate, there was a cute like creperie on the same street, so we went there instead. We decided to sit outside, even though it was a cool day, cause it was on a cute little street and it's fun to people watch. I decided to get the 15E set menu while Tom just ordered a crepe. Here's my crepe, you can see it was served with a little pat of butter on top.And here it is cut open. I wanted to show you how orange the egg yolk was. Now that's fresh!After the crepe, I was supposed to get a green salad and a dessert crepe. But we waited and waited, and it was starting to get really cold and sprinkle a bit. So we gave up. (Right as Tom went in to pay, the dessert crepe was coming out, but what happened to the salad?) We turned it down and headed back to the hostel to check out and head to the airport. Wait, right after we went to this nice patisserie near the place we had lunch. I wish we'd had lunch there. It was warm inside.
In closing, I wouldn't say I had the best food in Paris on this trip. I guess we just really didn't have the time, and missed out on a lot of places for weird reasons (well, it is Paris after all). So maybe on the next trip. I'm making it up on my trip to NY this weekend. I was very happy with my chocolate purchases, though, and continue to make my way through those. In closing, here's a pic I took in the 9th. If you're unfamiliar with these, it's by a French artist who goes around putting these space invader mosaics up in different places. I'm sure there's a website or blog out there that tracks them. I've seen them in LA, too. And I know there are ones in NY. Neat, huh?
Friday, November 03, 2006
PARIS: DAY 3
Day 3, Monday, was our big day for touristy stuff. (oh, and I had to visit a few more shops, of course). It was a perfect, sunny fall day to do it, too. We started off at Notre Dame. I had hoped to go on a bike tour of the city, but the tour guides never showed. (It was their last day of the season, maybe they decided to just take it off), so we ended up doing our own little tour of Paris. Actually, it wasn't that little. We walked A LOT. (which is fine with me, that's what you do in Europe).
We made our way over the the Louvre and the Jardin de Tulliers. And eventually, we decided it was time for lunch. I had written down a recommended bistro that apparently had good tartines (open faced sandwiches) but when we arrived at 12, they still weren't quite open. We walked around for a few minutes, but eventually decided we were hungry and went to the more modern looking sandwich place across the street. It reminded me a lot of Cosi (if you've ever been to the ones in NY, Philly or DC) . Tom and I both picked up sandwiches, but I didn't want to eat too much cause I knew that I wanted to get dessert at Jean Paul Hevin.
Here's a shot of my chicken sandwich with curry.I liked it a lot. The bread was super soft and I liked the subtle curry. My only issue was with all the poppy seeds which promptly lodged themselves in my teeth. Here's Tom's sandwich, chicken with bacon (of course).Tom also really like his, though not as much as the sandwich he'd had at Le Bon Marche. After we finished our sandwiches, we were off to the tearoom at Jean Paul Hevin. It wasn't a huge space and when we first arrived it was actually only half full, but it filled up quickly. I ended up ordering some chocolate dessert with passion fruit. I love passion fruit, and the cake was quite good, though a bit too much. I once again had to enlist Tom to finish it. After we'd finished off the dessert, we headed down to the shop where I picked up a few bars of chocolate. And then we were off to check out a few more shops and sites.
We made our way to Dalloyau, where I picked up a cute box of macaroons for Leah. It was a really nice gourmet shop, but it was super expensive, so we didn't get much. The chocolate selection didn't really interest me. But they had these prepared lobsters that were like 45E per serving! (somewhere around $60/ea, and they weren't even that big) And then we hopped on the metro to the Eiffel Tower. By this time, we were exhausted, and decided it was time to head back to the hostel for a nap and some snacks.
We ended up visiting a bakery near our hostel, where I picked up 2 slices of quiche for us to share. This one had smoked salmonWhile this one had tomatoes and zucchini.They were both really good, especially with the super buttery, flaky crust. I did like the salmon more, and at less than 6E for both slices, it was certainly a great deal.
After a quick nap, we headed out to our final dinner in Paris. I was hoping that it'd be the best meal we'd have there. I'd had Tom make reservations at Vagenende, which had been in a USA Today article and was supposed to have a good prix fixe menu at under 30E. The restaurant was truly a classic French bistro, which was packed and had some old school decorations and waiters running around. We were seated in a tight corner, not the best seats in the house, but I was fine with it cause we were near the windows, allowing in a nice breeze and it allowed us to observe the entire restaurant. I did actually end up ordering the prix fixe menu, while Tom ordered off the regular menu.
Ok, so sorry for the dark, fuzzy pics. I did my best. I started off with the classic French onion soup. I normally don't eat this, cause it is made with a beef broth, but when in Paris....At any rate, I found this very yummy, albiet really really cheesy and I couldn't finish the whole thing.Meanwhile, Tom got an order of escargot, which he really enjoyed, in all their buttery goodness. I think he's gonna put up the video of him eating some on his own blog.For my entree, I got the roasted chicken with potatoes. Unfortunately, this was probably the worst part of my meal. The chicken was dry and overcooked and pretty tasteless. I could definitely make a better chicken than that, but it was on the prix fixe menu afterall, and with a restaurant doing that kind of volume, I guess quality is hard to maintain. Meanwhile, Tom got the salmon and rice, served with another butter based sauce, which I think he was pretty happy with.We finished out meal with a slice of chocolate cake, which was probably my favorite thing out of everything I ate there, especially with the candied orange peels and the almond sauce on the side. It was quite good.
Day 3, Monday, was our big day for touristy stuff. (oh, and I had to visit a few more shops, of course). It was a perfect, sunny fall day to do it, too. We started off at Notre Dame. I had hoped to go on a bike tour of the city, but the tour guides never showed. (It was their last day of the season, maybe they decided to just take it off), so we ended up doing our own little tour of Paris. Actually, it wasn't that little. We walked A LOT. (which is fine with me, that's what you do in Europe).
We made our way over the the Louvre and the Jardin de Tulliers. And eventually, we decided it was time for lunch. I had written down a recommended bistro that apparently had good tartines (open faced sandwiches) but when we arrived at 12, they still weren't quite open. We walked around for a few minutes, but eventually decided we were hungry and went to the more modern looking sandwich place across the street. It reminded me a lot of Cosi (if you've ever been to the ones in NY, Philly or DC) . Tom and I both picked up sandwiches, but I didn't want to eat too much cause I knew that I wanted to get dessert at Jean Paul Hevin.
Here's a shot of my chicken sandwich with curry.I liked it a lot. The bread was super soft and I liked the subtle curry. My only issue was with all the poppy seeds which promptly lodged themselves in my teeth. Here's Tom's sandwich, chicken with bacon (of course).Tom also really like his, though not as much as the sandwich he'd had at Le Bon Marche. After we finished our sandwiches, we were off to the tearoom at Jean Paul Hevin. It wasn't a huge space and when we first arrived it was actually only half full, but it filled up quickly. I ended up ordering some chocolate dessert with passion fruit. I love passion fruit, and the cake was quite good, though a bit too much. I once again had to enlist Tom to finish it. After we'd finished off the dessert, we headed down to the shop where I picked up a few bars of chocolate. And then we were off to check out a few more shops and sites.
We made our way to Dalloyau, where I picked up a cute box of macaroons for Leah. It was a really nice gourmet shop, but it was super expensive, so we didn't get much. The chocolate selection didn't really interest me. But they had these prepared lobsters that were like 45E per serving! (somewhere around $60/ea, and they weren't even that big) And then we hopped on the metro to the Eiffel Tower. By this time, we were exhausted, and decided it was time to head back to the hostel for a nap and some snacks.
We ended up visiting a bakery near our hostel, where I picked up 2 slices of quiche for us to share. This one had smoked salmonWhile this one had tomatoes and zucchini.They were both really good, especially with the super buttery, flaky crust. I did like the salmon more, and at less than 6E for both slices, it was certainly a great deal.
After a quick nap, we headed out to our final dinner in Paris. I was hoping that it'd be the best meal we'd have there. I'd had Tom make reservations at Vagenende, which had been in a USA Today article and was supposed to have a good prix fixe menu at under 30E. The restaurant was truly a classic French bistro, which was packed and had some old school decorations and waiters running around. We were seated in a tight corner, not the best seats in the house, but I was fine with it cause we were near the windows, allowing in a nice breeze and it allowed us to observe the entire restaurant. I did actually end up ordering the prix fixe menu, while Tom ordered off the regular menu.
Ok, so sorry for the dark, fuzzy pics. I did my best. I started off with the classic French onion soup. I normally don't eat this, cause it is made with a beef broth, but when in Paris....At any rate, I found this very yummy, albiet really really cheesy and I couldn't finish the whole thing.Meanwhile, Tom got an order of escargot, which he really enjoyed, in all their buttery goodness. I think he's gonna put up the video of him eating some on his own blog.For my entree, I got the roasted chicken with potatoes. Unfortunately, this was probably the worst part of my meal. The chicken was dry and overcooked and pretty tasteless. I could definitely make a better chicken than that, but it was on the prix fixe menu afterall, and with a restaurant doing that kind of volume, I guess quality is hard to maintain. Meanwhile, Tom got the salmon and rice, served with another butter based sauce, which I think he was pretty happy with.We finished out meal with a slice of chocolate cake, which was probably my favorite thing out of everything I ate there, especially with the candied orange peels and the almond sauce on the side. It was quite good.
PARIS: DAY 2
On our second day in Paris, it was time to continue working with a visit the the Salon du Chocolat. As I explained to all of you in the previous post, I'm gonna document the work stuff with a Tabblo, coming soon. But suffice it to say, it was crowded and crazy. There were so many people there that it was a big battle to get anywhere near the booths, let alone grab samples. It was fun checking out chocolatiers who don't have shops in Paris, and I was able to get some great caramels from Le Roux and an assortment of other bars.
During the afternoon, I went to check out the famed flea market at Clignancourt, which was just a 10 minute walk from our hostel. I didn't take any pics cause it was so crowded and busy, filled with hundreds of vendors and thousands of visitors, and i didn't want to get pegged as a tourist and have anything stolen. But I did wander about for a couple of hours and had a great time, watching people shop, interact and sell. I figured out that the Parisians also enjoy hot dogs as quick take out food, but would rather have a crepe or a panini. ( I also observed a McDonalds about 20 feet away from a KFC, and unfortunately, people were actually eat there. Sigh. )
For dinner that evening, we set out for the Rotisserie Beaujolais near the Bastille. ( I realize I spelled that incorrectly, but I'm also too lazy to look up how it's actually spelled). There weren't as many dinner options on Sunday, since many restaurants are closed. Luckily this place was open. We got there an hour too early, cause my clock hadn't reset itself for daylight savings, so we ended up wandering around the neighborhood and checking out the Place du Vosges. And we did walk by a bunch of cute restaurants that I would've like to try out. When it rolled around to our reservation time, we went looking for the restaurant, but couldn't find it. I probably wrote the address incorrectly and neither of us had the phone number. So after searching for 10 minutes, we gave up and found a neighborhood bistro specializing in seafood.
At the restaurant we chose, they didn't have any written menus. Just a chalkboard with the dishes they had for that day. And neither Tom or I were really able to understand most of the dishes. So I went the safe route and ordered what I did understand, a seafood soup and a shrimp salad with parmesean. Tom got some shrimp ravioli and a grilled whole fish. I'm sorry I don't have any pics for you guys. It was just too dark in the restaurant and I didn't want my flash going off like some crazy American tourist.
At any rate, I was not in love with the food. For my soup, I expected something more akin to a boullaibase. Instead, I got some soup that was essentially thickened fish stock. It was passable, but not great. I could've made a better version myself. My salad turned out to be waaaayyyy to parmeseany and tart. The thing I enjoyed the most at dinner was actually Tom's fish, which was simply prepared and quite good. So our second day was not our best food day, but at least I got some work done!
On our second day in Paris, it was time to continue working with a visit the the Salon du Chocolat. As I explained to all of you in the previous post, I'm gonna document the work stuff with a Tabblo, coming soon. But suffice it to say, it was crowded and crazy. There were so many people there that it was a big battle to get anywhere near the booths, let alone grab samples. It was fun checking out chocolatiers who don't have shops in Paris, and I was able to get some great caramels from Le Roux and an assortment of other bars.
During the afternoon, I went to check out the famed flea market at Clignancourt, which was just a 10 minute walk from our hostel. I didn't take any pics cause it was so crowded and busy, filled with hundreds of vendors and thousands of visitors, and i didn't want to get pegged as a tourist and have anything stolen. But I did wander about for a couple of hours and had a great time, watching people shop, interact and sell. I figured out that the Parisians also enjoy hot dogs as quick take out food, but would rather have a crepe or a panini. ( I also observed a McDonalds about 20 feet away from a KFC, and unfortunately, people were actually eat there. Sigh. )
For dinner that evening, we set out for the Rotisserie Beaujolais near the Bastille. ( I realize I spelled that incorrectly, but I'm also too lazy to look up how it's actually spelled). There weren't as many dinner options on Sunday, since many restaurants are closed. Luckily this place was open. We got there an hour too early, cause my clock hadn't reset itself for daylight savings, so we ended up wandering around the neighborhood and checking out the Place du Vosges. And we did walk by a bunch of cute restaurants that I would've like to try out. When it rolled around to our reservation time, we went looking for the restaurant, but couldn't find it. I probably wrote the address incorrectly and neither of us had the phone number. So after searching for 10 minutes, we gave up and found a neighborhood bistro specializing in seafood.
At the restaurant we chose, they didn't have any written menus. Just a chalkboard with the dishes they had for that day. And neither Tom or I were really able to understand most of the dishes. So I went the safe route and ordered what I did understand, a seafood soup and a shrimp salad with parmesean. Tom got some shrimp ravioli and a grilled whole fish. I'm sorry I don't have any pics for you guys. It was just too dark in the restaurant and I didn't want my flash going off like some crazy American tourist.
At any rate, I was not in love with the food. For my soup, I expected something more akin to a boullaibase. Instead, I got some soup that was essentially thickened fish stock. It was passable, but not great. I could've made a better version myself. My salad turned out to be waaaayyyy to parmeseany and tart. The thing I enjoyed the most at dinner was actually Tom's fish, which was simply prepared and quite good. So our second day was not our best food day, but at least I got some work done!
Thursday, November 02, 2006
PARIS, DAY 1:
We arrived in Paris early on a Saturday morning and headed straight to our hostel where we dropped off our luggage. (We wouldn't be able to check in until 3pm, so we had lots of time free). Of course, I'd already had this entire trip planned out. We had a lot of ground to cover, and not a huge amount of time. So we hopped on the subway and started out on my plan to visit 9 different chocolate shops that day. I'm not going to sit here and actually record all the chocolate shops we went to, since all of that was pretty much work related and I've decided to create a Tabblo for that stuff. So I'll focus more on the things we ate.
We had visited 2 chocolate shops and decided that we needed a break and some late breakfast/lunch. Luckily, we were near the famed department store, Le Bon Marche and the Grand Epicerie, which is the huge marketplace located within the department store. We initally got lost looking for the marketplace, but soon figured out that it was in a second building and headed over there. And when we walked in, it was teaming with activity. Not only was the place huge, it was also full of shoppers and staff, and it was kinda overwhelming for both of us. (Having gotten off our flight recently and only having a few hours of sleep with no caffeine, it was hard to focus on much). I looked quickly at the chocolate section, but we headed straight for the back where we found the prepared foods section. We grabbed some food and drinks and checked out and headed to a nearby park where we sat and enjoyed our first bites of Parisian food. (Actually Tom had purchased some ridiculously expensive financiers while at Christian Constant, but this was our first real meal).
We each had one of these little Thai shrimp thingies. I didn't think they were that great, cause they were cold and the skin on the packets was pretty tough. And they were kinda greasy. At least they were pretty, though.
And we moved on to our sandwiches. I had a simple sandwich of grilled veggies, which was pretty good.
And Tom had also had a simple sandwich of ham and cheese on a baguette. As soon as we took our food out, the pigeons began to gather, and you can see one in this pic, near Tom's knee. Turns out that that sandwich was Tom's favorite thing he ate the whole trip. He says it was due to the quality of the bread.
After our quick lunch, we headed back to Le Grand Epicerie, cause I wanted to get a better look at the chocolate section and everything they had inside. It really was amazing, with its own pastry counter, bread counter, meat section, cheese section, seafood section and everything!
Here are crates of fresh oysters.
And the aforementioned seafood counter.
There was so much yummy food, I think I could've happily spent the entire day there, but we had things to accomplish.
But moving on, we visited another 3 chocolate shops before we stopped at Pierre Herme, the famed French pastry chef. He has only one store in Paris, and I was surprised at how tiny it was. There was a line out the door, which we dutifully waited in, until it was our turn to buy some pastries. Here's a pic of the pastry case. And yes, that really does say 26E (about $30) for a quart of ice cream.Suffice it to say, this place was shockingly expensive. It was also so full of people and staff dropping off more inventory that I didn't have much time to linger and think about what I wanted to order. I settle on buying two chocolate bars and this little bag of 6 macaroons. Aren't they pretty?
Pierre Hermes changes his macaroon flavors every year. But here's my favorite one and the best thing that I ate in Paris, the Passion Fruit Macaroon.The filling was so passion fruity and tart and wonderfully flavored. It was great. I also really liked my salted caramel macaroon. Unfortuately I couldn't eat them all at once and stuck them in my back pack. By the time we got back to the hostel, they were a bag of crushed macaroons. I ate them anyway.
Next up, it was time to visit some more shops and head to the Ile St. Louis for some hot chocolate and ice cream. Turns out that the Ile St. Louis was my favorite area that we visited the entire trip. I would happily stay there in the future. It's a more residential island, just next to the Ile de la Cite (where the Notre Dame is located and where the city of Paris started). The main street is filled with great shops, some quirky and many filled with food. We made our first stop at what I thought was Berthillon, the famous ice cream store. Tom bought an almond ice cream, which I think he liked. I thought it tasted like marzipan and was too sweet for me. I was holding out for some hot chocolate, anyway. Turns out that place was just a cafe that happened to sell Berthillon ice cream (like every other cafe on that island), but that was ok since the actual Berthillon was closed (I'm not sure why).
We eventually made our way to our last stop for the day, a tiny, adorable place called La Charlotte de l'Ile. It's owned by an older woman and was pretty empty when we arrived. Just imagine if you had an old eccentric aunt who kept everything and had funny nicknacks everywhere, like strange teapots and such, and that is exactly what this place is like. We sat in the front room, next to an old piano, and I ordered a hot chocolate, reportedly the best in Paris.My chocolate was brought to me on a little tray, and I loved that it was served with a tiny pitcher of water with its own little shot glass. And the chocolate itself was amazing. I told Tom that it was even better than the chocolate at my own store. It was dense and dark and had a lot of depth to it. But it was too much! I couldn't finish it all and had to make Tom help me.
Finally we were done with chocolate shopping for the day and we returned to our hostel where we crashed for an afternoon nap. When we got up, we were kinda hungry, but first made our way up to the Sacre Couer, which was right near our hostel. We descended on the other side of the hill in the 9th district, an area famous for the presence of the Moulin Rouge and I went off looking for a take out place called the Chicken Family, which I'd read about in a blog called Chocolate and Zucchini by a blogger named Clotide who lives in the 9th.Chicken Family is famous for it's roasted chicken, so I bought one along with some kind of seafood salad. We were hungry and tired by this point, so my plan to have a picnic near the Sacre Couer didn't happen. We returned to our hostel instead. Tom wasn't a fan of Chicken Family, nothing appealed to him, but I did enjoy my roasted chicken. It was super moist and tasty and they'd even seasoned the interior. Another one of the best things I ate during the trip. And that's it for dining on Day 1.
We arrived in Paris early on a Saturday morning and headed straight to our hostel where we dropped off our luggage. (We wouldn't be able to check in until 3pm, so we had lots of time free). Of course, I'd already had this entire trip planned out. We had a lot of ground to cover, and not a huge amount of time. So we hopped on the subway and started out on my plan to visit 9 different chocolate shops that day. I'm not going to sit here and actually record all the chocolate shops we went to, since all of that was pretty much work related and I've decided to create a Tabblo for that stuff. So I'll focus more on the things we ate.
We had visited 2 chocolate shops and decided that we needed a break and some late breakfast/lunch. Luckily, we were near the famed department store, Le Bon Marche and the Grand Epicerie, which is the huge marketplace located within the department store. We initally got lost looking for the marketplace, but soon figured out that it was in a second building and headed over there. And when we walked in, it was teaming with activity. Not only was the place huge, it was also full of shoppers and staff, and it was kinda overwhelming for both of us. (Having gotten off our flight recently and only having a few hours of sleep with no caffeine, it was hard to focus on much). I looked quickly at the chocolate section, but we headed straight for the back where we found the prepared foods section. We grabbed some food and drinks and checked out and headed to a nearby park where we sat and enjoyed our first bites of Parisian food. (Actually Tom had purchased some ridiculously expensive financiers while at Christian Constant, but this was our first real meal).
We each had one of these little Thai shrimp thingies. I didn't think they were that great, cause they were cold and the skin on the packets was pretty tough. And they were kinda greasy. At least they were pretty, though.
And we moved on to our sandwiches. I had a simple sandwich of grilled veggies, which was pretty good.
And Tom had also had a simple sandwich of ham and cheese on a baguette. As soon as we took our food out, the pigeons began to gather, and you can see one in this pic, near Tom's knee. Turns out that that sandwich was Tom's favorite thing he ate the whole trip. He says it was due to the quality of the bread.
After our quick lunch, we headed back to Le Grand Epicerie, cause I wanted to get a better look at the chocolate section and everything they had inside. It really was amazing, with its own pastry counter, bread counter, meat section, cheese section, seafood section and everything!
Here are crates of fresh oysters.
And the aforementioned seafood counter.
There was so much yummy food, I think I could've happily spent the entire day there, but we had things to accomplish.
But moving on, we visited another 3 chocolate shops before we stopped at Pierre Herme, the famed French pastry chef. He has only one store in Paris, and I was surprised at how tiny it was. There was a line out the door, which we dutifully waited in, until it was our turn to buy some pastries. Here's a pic of the pastry case. And yes, that really does say 26E (about $30) for a quart of ice cream.Suffice it to say, this place was shockingly expensive. It was also so full of people and staff dropping off more inventory that I didn't have much time to linger and think about what I wanted to order. I settle on buying two chocolate bars and this little bag of 6 macaroons. Aren't they pretty?
Pierre Hermes changes his macaroon flavors every year. But here's my favorite one and the best thing that I ate in Paris, the Passion Fruit Macaroon.The filling was so passion fruity and tart and wonderfully flavored. It was great. I also really liked my salted caramel macaroon. Unfortuately I couldn't eat them all at once and stuck them in my back pack. By the time we got back to the hostel, they were a bag of crushed macaroons. I ate them anyway.
Next up, it was time to visit some more shops and head to the Ile St. Louis for some hot chocolate and ice cream. Turns out that the Ile St. Louis was my favorite area that we visited the entire trip. I would happily stay there in the future. It's a more residential island, just next to the Ile de la Cite (where the Notre Dame is located and where the city of Paris started). The main street is filled with great shops, some quirky and many filled with food. We made our first stop at what I thought was Berthillon, the famous ice cream store. Tom bought an almond ice cream, which I think he liked. I thought it tasted like marzipan and was too sweet for me. I was holding out for some hot chocolate, anyway. Turns out that place was just a cafe that happened to sell Berthillon ice cream (like every other cafe on that island), but that was ok since the actual Berthillon was closed (I'm not sure why).
We eventually made our way to our last stop for the day, a tiny, adorable place called La Charlotte de l'Ile. It's owned by an older woman and was pretty empty when we arrived. Just imagine if you had an old eccentric aunt who kept everything and had funny nicknacks everywhere, like strange teapots and such, and that is exactly what this place is like. We sat in the front room, next to an old piano, and I ordered a hot chocolate, reportedly the best in Paris.My chocolate was brought to me on a little tray, and I loved that it was served with a tiny pitcher of water with its own little shot glass. And the chocolate itself was amazing. I told Tom that it was even better than the chocolate at my own store. It was dense and dark and had a lot of depth to it. But it was too much! I couldn't finish it all and had to make Tom help me.
Finally we were done with chocolate shopping for the day and we returned to our hostel where we crashed for an afternoon nap. When we got up, we were kinda hungry, but first made our way up to the Sacre Couer, which was right near our hostel. We descended on the other side of the hill in the 9th district, an area famous for the presence of the Moulin Rouge and I went off looking for a take out place called the Chicken Family, which I'd read about in a blog called Chocolate and Zucchini by a blogger named Clotide who lives in the 9th.Chicken Family is famous for it's roasted chicken, so I bought one along with some kind of seafood salad. We were hungry and tired by this point, so my plan to have a picnic near the Sacre Couer didn't happen. We returned to our hostel instead. Tom wasn't a fan of Chicken Family, nothing appealed to him, but I did enjoy my roasted chicken. It was super moist and tasty and they'd even seasoned the interior. Another one of the best things I ate during the trip. And that's it for dining on Day 1.
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